Memphis didn't really take off, however, until the dense hardwood forests along the river began to be cleared in the mid-nineteenth century, finally making farmable the flat, rich floodplain known as the Mississippi Delta. The city was founded 278 years later by Andrew Jackson and a group of his investor cronies, and named for the ancient Egyptian capital near the Giza pyramids.

Memphis was built on the spot where the Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto, in 1541, became the first European to lay eyes on the Mississippi River. White gold, mined from the world's richest alluvium. Cotton as far as the eye could see, row after perfect row. On the long sandbars, feral pigs ran among graveyards of driftwood and rotten cypress stumps.īut in the clearings beyond these wild margins were hundreds and hundreds of miles of cotton fields. A mile across the river lay the floodplain of Arkansas, a world of chiggers and alligator gars and water moccasins that lived in swampy oxbow lakes. In the main channel, whole trees could be seen shooting downstream. The brown Mississippi, wide with northern snowmelt, was a confusion of crosscurrents and boils. The good families, the old families, in their finest James Davis clothes, bourbon flasks in hand, assembled for the start of the South's Greatest Party. They'd come from all the clubs - Chickasaw, University, Colonial, Hunt and Polo, the Memphis Country Club - and from the garden societies.

They'd come from all the secret krewes - from the Mystic Society of the Memphi, from Osiris and RaMet and Sphinx. Seventy-five thousand people, dressed to be seen, waited in the twilight. Louis, the citizens of Memphis stood along the cobblestoned banks, enjoying the musky coolness of the river. In early May 1967, three hundred miles downstream from St. The following is an excerpt from 'Hellhound On His Trail' by Hampton Sides

Hellhound on his trail by hampton sides